Sunday, December 11, 2011

Tico Times

In November of 2004, shortly after graduating from college, I decided to go to Costa Rica to learn Spanish.  I was kind of lost, looking for some adventure, and although I didn't really develop my plan so well, I went anyway.  I originally planned to get a job there, but after realizing that I could rent a beachside apartment with utilities included for $280 per month, I decided to just ride out my savings for my 90 day tourist visa.  I was a bit afraid of traveling to a foreign land without a plan, but Costa Rica seemed like a beautiful, friendly place.  After all, their motto is "pura vida," and they live a pretty pure life, indeed.

Costa Rica was a stepping stone into the world of Spanish, but I returned home that February feeling a bit disappointed in what I had actually learned.  I chalked it up to the fact that I was toting along a super gringo with minimal Spanish vocabulary and his furry friend, who made travel just a tad difficult.  Although Puff, a black lab and golden retriever mix, was an inconvenience at times, he did leave me with some great memories that I would not trade.  I'll never forget how he would sit on the beach, keeping a watchful eye on us as we swam.  If we were swept under by a powerful Costa Rican wave, Puff would come to our rescue, releasing an emergency howl and diving into the salty breakers after us.  He was a good boy, although not really the right companion for an adventure learning trip.

Seven years (and miles of travel) later, I returned to Costa Rica on vacation.  This time, I could speak Spanish rather well; I had no fears of uncertainty, and I did not bring a pet along for the ride.  I traveled with my brother and his family in an extended length mini-van with an English-speaking driver.  We began in Heredia, a suburb of San Jose, then visited the Monte Verde cloud forest, as well as Playa Hermosa de Guanacaste.

I think that I have gotten rather confident with my Spanish skills.  I might forget some vocabulary from time to time, but I always remember the key words, and I have long ago stopped caring what anyone thinks.  Despite making a valient attempt to speak my acquired tongue, I was met with strong opposition in Costa Rica.  I returned to the U.S. feeling disappointed again, and I tried my hardest to convince myself that my Spanish is not terrible.  It's just that ticos (as Costa Ricans are affectionately named) are truly speaking the English and speaking it well.

I am reminded why I did not return to this gorgeous paradise to further my language learning.  I'm not sure what I had expected from a nation with a 96% literacy rate, where the military was abolished and the spare funds were invested in education.  Ticos are smart people, and they realize that they are sitting on a gold mine.  Costa Rica has beautiful weather, a plethora of tropical wildlife, and an exciting topography.  The one thing that might prevent Americans from arriving in droves and wall-papering the jungle with dollar bills is the language barrier, so ticos are doing their best to take down any roadblocks (at least metaphorically speaking... literally speaking, the place is a continuous traffic jam). 

More Americans live in Costa Rica per capita than any other country in the world (with the exception of the United States).  During this visit, I noticed that Walmarts and McDonalds are more prominent than ever.  Some of the highways even have digital warning signs, which would have seemed like a pipe dream when I first visited.  The nation is developing, and it is no coincidence that American institutions are popping up as more gringos are settling in this land.  English is important for Costa Rica and for the rest of the world, for that matter.  Speaking English isn't just a hobby to most people.  It's a necessity.  My mother tongue always seems to prevail in the language duel.  I used to feel sorry about this, but I can no longer lament my good fortune.  There is no shame in speaking English.

I enjoy learning foreign languages, and I think language learners understand the world a little more deeply.  You realize the limitations and complexities of your own language, and you discover cultural intricacies that would otherwise remain hidden.  Although I wish I could speak in tongues, I surely can not learn every language.  Thus, I am grateful for the many ambitious English speakers on the globe.  Maybe I won't understand every culture as deeply as I would like, but their efforts to learn English just further global communication.  The more we share ideas, the better. 

Costa Rica may not be the best place to learn Spanish, but I think their English skills and welcoming spirit have opened the minds of some Americans who might otherwise fear a zone with a reputation for wars and drugs.  I just hope that my compatriots don't forget that they are the guests.  I hope that they ask their new neighbors if they want a new Walmart in their town before they build it.  I hope that they make an effort to learn Spanish, and I hope they wash their gallo pinto and plantains down with an agua pipa.  I hope they realize their responsibility to preserve and protect this "rich coast."  This is my only concern about Costa Rica's progress, and somehow, I just don't have faith in my fellow countrymen.